What's the best wire to use for wire wrapping?

This is a common question for most new and aspiring wire wrap artists.  There are many different types of wire, so the best choice then becomes subjective.  I've listed my personal preferences below which should help guide your own choices.

However, ideally the "best" wire to use is wire that's appropriate for the design or project you want to create.  You'll understand this better with experience.  Most artists will experiment with different size and shapes of wire to create that new and / or unusual design and they end up choosing their favorite, which dominates most of their work.  That is until something else catches their fancy.  But...

...until you get to that point you should know that there are many types of wire from Stainless Steel craft wire to Gold Filled and Solid Gold wire.  The most popular craft wire is available in a variety colors usually coated with colored or clear vinyl and is made with multiple strands for durability and flexibility and is used for beading.  There is also solid or thick single strand stainless steel spring wire used for a lot of popular bracelet and necklace designs.  On occasion I use gold filled and solid gold wire for some of my work.  But my favorite, which happens to be the most popular for a variety of reasons, is sterling silver.  Copper wire is the second most popular wire used for making wire wrap jewelry.

Wire, including Sterling Silver, is available in many shapes like oval, triangle, square, and round profiles.  Each profile lends itself well for the most common design styles.  Sterling wire comes in other shapes or profiles, but those listed above are the most commonly used.

Like different shapes, wire also comes in different thicknesses or gage, and hardness levels, also known as malleability or flexibility.  Wire gages range from 6 gage to 32 gage with 32 being the thinnest; which is about the thickness of human hair.  The range for most wire wrap projects span the middle of the chart and fall between 14 and 26 gage.

Hardness levels range from Dead-Soft to Soft, Half-Hard to Hard (DS = Dead-Soft, S = Soft, HH = Half-Hard, H = Hard).  Soft and Half-Hard are used more often because it's easiest to work with.  Dead-Soft wire does not hold its shape well when used for wide looping or elaborate designs so I stay away from it for this reason.  Although you can stiffen Dead-Soft wire by pulling it through the nylon coated jaws of flat pliers or your fingers several times.  There are other methods of hardening wire including heat treatment, but for me doing so adds steps or a process that I can skip by using Half-Hard wire.

Half-Hard and Hard wire is difficult to work because it is in fact "hard" to bend and requires a strong hand grip and tools.  The wire also nicks or damages easily because you must firmly clamp down on it to get the wire to bend correctly.  Nicks, gouges, and scratches, occur when the tool slips or "snaps!" off of the wire.  However, I still prefer HH and Hard wire because once it's bent, it's done, and will usually not get damaged through wear and tear.  Durable is the word I'd use.  These pieces should last for generations and even become heirlooms.

I use Half-Hard and Hard Sterling Silver Round wire for most of my work with the majority falling between 18 and 24 gage wires.  Round wire also happens to be the easiest to obtain.  I simply prefer round wire because of the smooth flowing lines that meld artistically with the stones and beads I use to create the design I like most - while square or triangular wire has its benefits for particular designs, I feel that the sharp lines of angular wire detract from the natural beauty of the stones and beads I use most.  My goal, or personal preference, is to create a unified piece not dominated by just the wire or just the color infused by stones and other elements.  However, square, or angular wire, seems to hug the surface of stones better than round wire.  So for me, a well thought-out and crafted round-wire design is essential to the stability of the piece.

For Earrings I mostly use 22 and 24 gage sterling wire.  Although I use 26 gage for small beads as part of a larger overall design project.

For Pendants I prefer 18 and 20 gage sterling wire.  But I have used heavier 14 and 16 gages wires where the wire is the predominate design element.

And depending on the piece, I use 18 gage for bails, hook & loop closures, split-rings, or my figure-eight links.

The main thing to remember is to picture the design clearly in your mind, or draw out a rough sketch on a piece of paper, and start out slow and deliberate - plan your steps in advance.  Don't be discouraged with failed attempts, that's how you learn.  To get better faster you must be consistent, persevere, and pay close attention to what you are doing.  It can take some time to learn the bending characteristics of the different types of wire and how to work with each kind.  Becoming proficient is no accident.  Since I am self taught, I have many hours of hard word invested into experimenting with wire.  I have also trashed some very expensive material during real production runs as well.  It is my hope that this short guide will save you from expensive mistakes.  But please note; no matter how advanced you become, mistakes will happen.  For this reason, it is advisable for...

...new wire wrap artists or enthusiasts to practice with copper wire.  This could save you from costly mistakes in the beginning stages of your learning process, and even later as your designs become more complicated.  I am not referring to the multi-strand wire you buy for speakers or lamp cords, but electrical wire like the type used for light load household wiring applications.  These wires can be purchased at major hardware or building supply stores.  A 12 to 18 gage *ROMEX works well and is a common brand of 3-conductor (3-wire) solid copper wire.  The profile is a flat oval due to the 3 wires inside the outer white or black plastic sheath.  Typically, in a three conductor configuration, two of the inner wires will be insulated with either black, white, and / or green plastic and one will not be insulted at all.  Using the non insulated ground wire will save you time.  All that's needed it to strip away the outer insulation enough to get a firm grip on it while you tug on the non insulated wire which will act as a zipper of sorts and cut the outer insulation as you pull on it.  Rip out several feet and coil it up for use.  I use copper wire for some jewelry, but mainly when I want to work out a new design I'll make it with copper wire first.  That way I can work out any design challenges and reduce possible mistakes before I take to the silver or gold.

*Romex is a brand name and copyright is held by the Romex company. This is not an endorsement, merely a guide.

Sterling Silver and Copper wire can become tarnished over time; to keep its luster longer just store it in plastic bags.  This is a nice way to keep your wire shiny or to preserve the luster for a longer period.  Just coil up your wire and stick it into a plastic bag, the kind with a tight seal, or zipper style works well; just press out as much air as possible before you seal it.  Air causes oxidation, so removing the air will keep you and your wire happy for a longer time!

The wire I use for Pendants spans the gamut and depends on the size and shape of stone or other material that I am wrapping.  But I mostly use 18 and 20 gage wire for pendants since I prefer a specific size, shape, and stone or bead type.

I sincerely hope this tid-bit of info helps you.

Blessings,

and always,

Happy Wrapping!

Raymond

DOWNLOAD FREE WIRE WRAP INSTRUCTIONS:  How to "capture" wrap a crystal point.  There's also an image of some basic tools you'll need. The file is in PDF format.

Click the image to get your free wire wrap instructions. →

I've had numerous requests from folks wanting to know how to create a Hook & Loop closure for leather.  Here's a photo (click for larger view) of a closure I created for a necklace made with 3mm round leather cord; a design I use most often in my work because it's durable and attractive.

And because of the rising interest, I'll be posting an eBooklet on how to create this closure very soon.

There are several basic design elements that I try to incorporate into every piece and this hook & loop closure is a great example:

  It must be durable without sacrificing style and/or beauty.

  Durability requires intelligent design and good quality materials.

  Pieces must be comfortable to wear. No pinching, binding, or sharp edges.

  Ease of use. An example is the closure featured here; it has to be easy to hook and unhook.

  Transition elements such as closures, must be attractive, or add to the overall design.

Check back from time to time...I hope to have the eBooklet posted very soon.

Make a wire wrap loop.

Stones with Description of Metaphysical and Healing Properties

Stones. From the first humans and even today we rely upon them for our very survival.  Some, very special stones were, and still are, revered for their beauty as personal adornments and many have deep spiritual significance.  You can immediately associate some stones with particular ancient peoples.  Examples of the most recognized are Turquoise with ancient Egyptians and later with the Native American Southwest.  Of course there are many more associations I'm sure you can think of.  But one primary theme prevails among them all to this very day; humans have a long and very rich history and sacred connection to Stones of the Earth.

Have you ever wondered why certain stones attract your attention, or why you like some and not others?  Is it any wonder, given our beautiful history with stones, that when one looks upon a stone it touches us in some way?  Even a casual glance at a stone or rock could mean it has some connection or significance for you - it's personal.  Science has revealed the fact that everything in our world and universe is energy.  Did you get that?  Everything IS energy, even our very thoughts.  All physical objects, including our own bodies, are simply solidified energy, in a constant vibratory phase.  The only difference between objects is the rate of vibration.  And since everything vibrates, all things create light and sound - yes, everything around you, including "you," sing a personal song.  Each person, flower, rock, animal, the dirt and waters of the earth, all emit an aura and vibrate, or sing, their own tune.  Stones with the same or similar vibratory rate to our own body create a natural attraction that may pull your glance, often invoking many different feelings or emotions, and some are very intense.  For others it can be a simple desire to own a particular piece of jewelry.  Music does the same thing and is considered, "the great communicator."  Stones, like music, are "great secret communicators;" the Macro and the Micro.  And many people do not even realize what's happening or how this vibratory energy affects them.  Such a subtle connection is indeed magic!  With regard to stones, it's a secret language, or music, known to the ancients and seemingly lost to myth and legend over eons.  But we live in a gracious and enlightening time because this ancient knowledge, the "Priska Sapiencia," and the memories of our sacred symbiosis with stones has been preserved within the lineage of mystics, shaman's, and the Akash, and is reemerging into the consciousness of a growing number of enlightened human beings.  We're rediscovering elements of our ancient past, along with the many connections to the elements of our living earth.  We're realizing the blessings and benefits these passive, yet very powerful, human companions.  Even mainstream science has recognized the correlations and how these energies interact with the human body.  Some people, like myself, are especially attuned to the music of stones and metals and it is for this reason I experience great joy when remastering these precious elements into lasting, very special, and one-of-a-kind, personal adornments.  Naturally Wired Jewelry and Jewelry Wire Wrap designs are created with the ancient knowledge and all possess the secret and magical language that really does speak to you, with you, and for you.

Over time I collected a list of common stones and gems with a brief description of the metaphysical and healing properties of each stone in the list.  I decided to offer this list as a free PDF download.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.  Click the icon below to download your free list.

Meditation With Stones

Look at the stone of your choice and notice its color and variations, read the description from the PDF above and pay special attention to the metaphysical and healing properties of that stone.  Then hold the stone or stones in one or both hands - gently hold the stone comfortably in your palm.  Sit in a relaxed comfortable position in a quiet place where you will not be distracted or disturbed for at least 15 to 20 minutes, and then close your eyes.  A great time for this practice is right after you shower in the morning before 10 AM - earth energy at this time of day is gentle and nurturing.  Concentrate on the stone and its benefits and focus your thoughts on absorbing the energy and colors of the stone.  Then with pure intent visualize yourself achieving the outcome intended by the stone.  For example, Amethyst has many benefits, one is contentment.  But its color is also associated with the peaceful healing violet flame of St. Germaine.  As you sit with an Amethyst stone in your hand, visualize yourself completely content with your life and your body in a totally healthy state.  If your mind wanders, and it will (it gets easier with practice), bring yourself back to the visualization of health and contentment.  Do not think about anything else, just be healthy and content regardless of what is going on in your life.  Put your troubles or personal issues away for these few minutes and just be.  There is no need to visualize yourself working out at the gym or think about how you will become healthy and content.  Just imagine yourself in the state you want and believe it is already done for you.  Bring your mind to a state where you can feel healthy and content and know it is so.  Ask Spirit to give you what you need by affirming the following prayer, "Dear Spirit, give me what I need and I will sit and be loved."  Then clear your mind and sit there peacefully and allow yourself to be loved by Spirit for the next few minutes and then stand back!  God and Spirit Loves you unconditionally, your higher-self and your spirit guides will understand your intent and are eager to take action upon your asking - all they need is your permission to help you, and they will!  Practice this affirmation and meditation for a few minutes each day and then let it go - even 10 minutes per day will serve you well.  You are dearly loved, and so it is...

  Raymond

On the Mohs hardness scale of 1 to 10 (1-talc or chalk, 10-diamonds), gem grade turquoise measures between 5 and 6, and is quite porous.  Even though turquoise is fairly hard, it can scratch easily, especially if you store or wear your turquoise jewelry with other gemstones - to avoid scratches just don't rub them together.  Pits are caused by bumping against other gemstones.  You can place your turquoise jewelry in a silk, natural leather, or felt pouch, before storing in your jewelry box.  Some people wrap turquoise necklaces in a silk scarf, or soft cloth, before hanging.  This is a perfect way to keep your turquoise.  Just be sure the cloth is white to avoid color dyes from staining or leaching into the turquoise.

Take a small, clean, cotton cloth, or towel with a short nap, and soak it in warm water, then fold it several times and lay it on a flat surface; your kitchen counter if fine, but the cloth will leak water.  You might want to use a tray with a slight lip to avoid leaking water all over the place.  If you're cleaning a necklace, open the clasp and lay it lengthwise on the towel or cloth.  Now take a soft bristle toothbrush, run a little water over it and put a few drops of clear plain dish soap on the brush.  Either press one end of the necklace down with your fingers or hold about 1/3rd of the necklace in your hand.  Then rub or brush the necklace in the opposite direction, or away from you, using a scraping motion - kind of like peeling a potato.  Apply some pressure and make smooth strokes down the entire length of the piece, past the end.  Suds will form the more you brush since the cloth is wet, this is a good thing - lather it right up.  Roll, rotate, or turn, the piece over and do the same on the other side.  After several seconds or minutes of brushing, your choice, flip the piece around and hold the other end and do the same thing.  Rinse the necklace is warm water and take a look - don't dangle the necklace over the sink, coil it up in your open hand and run warm water over it.  If you feel more cleaning is needed, have fun.  When you're finished, immediately lay the necklace on a clean dry cloth and pat it completely dry - leave your necklace out for several hours to be sure all the water has dried before storage.

P.S. Turquoise is one of my favorite stones, as if you couldn't tell, and the above cleaning method is the only one I use on turquoise before it's listed for sale.  It's worked fine for me for over 25 years and should work well for you too.